Amsterdam 5-13

June 17, 2013

If you only have one day in the beautiful city of Amsterdam, there are two things that you must do. First we went to the famous Rijksmuseum, recently reopened after 13 years of restoration. Even if you’re not an art connoisseur, the works of Rembrandt, Rubens, Van Gogh and other masters will astound you with their amazing detail. What is fascinating about some of these paintings is that they were done before photography existed so they represent our only visual understanding of what people looked like, dressed like and did hundreds of years ago. Obviously, the museum is a very popular attraction so the usual crowds and lines were ever present, but once inside, that did not detract from the spectacular collection this world-famous museum contains.

The crowds and lines were ever present, but once inside, that did not detract from the spectacular collection of the Rijksmuseum.

The crowds and lines were ever present, but once inside, that did not detract from the spectacular collection of the Rijksmuseum.

There is a point of course, like eating chocolate, where you have had so much, no matter how good it is, you just can’t see anymore. Four hours was enough, and I think we were the last ones out the door. Back on the street, the second thing we had to do, or at least for Gary, was to re-experience one of the most popular dishes in town; fresh hot French fries in a cone with the big dollop of fresh mayonnaise dribbled over the top. He discovered this delicacy on his first visit to Amsterdam some 45 years ago and the tasty snack is still very popular.

As popular as it was 45 years ago, hot French fries with mayonnaise are still a local favorite.

As popular as it was 45 years ago, hot French fries with mayonnaise are still a local favorite.

No one in the world makes better French fries than the little snack shops scattered around the city of Amsterdam.

No one in the world makes better French fries than the little snack shops scattered around the city of Amsterdam.

If you haven’t tried fresh hot French fries in a cone with the big dollop of fresh mayonnaise dribbled over the top, you haven’t been to Amsterdam.

If you haven’t tried fresh hot French fries in a cone with the big dollop of fresh mayonnaise dribbled over the top, you haven’t been to Amsterdam.

We wandered around downtown, over the bridges and along the web of concentric canals that circle the city. There is the flower market with the selection of tulips Holland is known for. We loved the unique architecture of Dutch homes, narrow multistory brick buildings that often feature a pulley at the very top to lift furniture to the upper floors. Amsterdam is a very multicultural city so there are great restaurants to please any taste. We found good eats at the Asian Kitchen. Just before the rain clouds came, we managed to stop by the historic “Dam Square” a traditional meeting place for travelers from around the world. Gary had sat on the steps with his backpack back in 1969 in route to Afghanistan. Along the way, he caught the love of travel that he still has today. Amsterdam is clearly a city that must visited more than once.

We wandered around downtown, over the bridges and along the web of concentric canals that circle the city.

We wandered around downtown, over the bridges and along the web of concentric canals that circle the city.

Holland is famous for tulips, but the flower market has much more to offer.

Holland is famous for tulips, but the flower market has much more to offer.

The Asian Kitchen’s friendly cooks prepared a spicy dinner for a reasonable price.

The Asian Kitchen’s friendly cooks prepared a spicy dinner for a reasonable price.

The Dam Square may be where Gary first caught the travel bug.

The Dam Square may be where Gary first caught the travel bug.

 

England #8 (London #5) 5-13

June 15, 2013

It was our last day in London. How much could we cram in? Perhaps there was a better way to see more without walking 10 miles. Historically, London was a very busy port and the center of commerce. The River Thames winds its way through the heart of the city, bordering the most important districts and crisscrossed by no less than seven bridges, including the Tower Bridge. We discovered one of the easiest and best ways to see a good portion of London is to take a river cruise up and down the Thames. The Hop-on Hop-off bus tour included a trip on the River Thames. The boat dock was in walking distance to both the Tower Bridge and The Tower of London.

To our advantage, the tour guide spoke very understandable English with a good sense of humor. “Coming up on the left-hand side now, you’ll see the Tate Modern Museum. It’s free. If you know anything about modern art, you’ll know why it’s free.”

The views from a river tour boat were often better than from a Hop-On-Hop-Off bus.

The views from a river tour boat were often better than from a Hop-On-Hop-Off bus.

A relaxing City Cruise gave our tired feet a rest.

A relaxing City Cruise gave our tired feet a rest.

Our tour guide spoke very understandable English with a good sense of British humor.

Our tour guide spoke very understandable English with a good sense of British humor.

From our comfortable seat on the upper deck we saw parts of London that it would require several days of walking or busing.

Ahh, those famous double-decker red busses. Everywhere you look, busses and more busses.

Ahh, those famous double-decker red buses. Everywhere you look, buses and more buses.

Many buildings damaged during the war have been beautifully restored.

Many buildings damaged during the war have been beautifully restored.

Old pubs like this corner bar still hold the British charm.

Old pubs like this corner bar still hold the British charm.

The Tower of London has a history dating back to its beginning in 1066 during the reign of William the Conqueror. The Tower is in fact a castle, but over the years it has served as a palace, an observatory, a storehouse and a mint. During its bloody past it was a prison and the site of uncountable executions. It was home to England’s medieval monarchs. Among the impressive displays are two rooms filled with 500 years of Royal Armor and of course, we couldn’t miss seeing the Crown Jewels up-close, including the 530-carat Cullinan Diamond at the top of the Royal Scepter. Sorry, photos are not allowed. The 23,578 other gems are well guarded. An elaborate ceremony of locking the gates has been performed for more than 700 years.

The castle/fortress Tower of London dates back to the year 1066 during the reign of William the Conqueror. Among other treasures, it houses the Crown Jewels.

The castle/fortress Tower of London dates back to the year 1066 during the reign of William the Conqueror. Among other treasures, it houses the Crown Jewels.

Like Buckingham Palace, the Royal Guards keep a watchful eye.

Like Buckingham Palace, the Royal Guards keep a watchful eye.

Did he smile or blink with all those cameras pointed at him?

Did he smile or blink with all those cameras pointed at him?

Surely one of London’s most recognizable landmarks is The Tower Bridge with its neo-Gothic towers and blue suspension struts. It was built back in 1894 and was designed with a revolutionary bascule (see-saw) mechanism that could clear the way for oncoming ships in 3 minutes. It still operates, often and as much as 10 times a day in the summer. For a fascinating look at the mechanics of this famous bridge, we signed up for the tour into the depths of its engine rooms.

Viewed from the ramparts of the Tower of London castle, the Tower Bridge is a major landmark of the city.

Viewed from the ramparts of the Tower of London castle, the Tower Bridge is a major landmark of the city.

The Shard, looking like a broken piece of glass, is one of London’s more unique examples of modern arcatecture.

The Shard, looking like a broken piece of glass, is one of London’s more unique examples of modern architecture.

Some times dubbed “the Easter Egg” arteches from around the world have pushed design of buildings in London to its limits.

Some times dubbed “the Easter Egg” arteches from around the world have pushed design of buildings in London to its limits.

Hopping on the bus again, we were able to see a little more of the city, stopping just in time to attend the Musical Billy Elliot. A true British musical, it has received rave reviews since it opened in 2005. Sir Elton John composed the music. While we did enjoy the performance, some of the British humor was lost to our untrained ears.

Rushing to get back to the Waterloo Train Station to catch the last train out, we flagged down the ever-present London Cab and were lucky to get an old one.

What would a visit to London be without a ride in the classic Londoner Cab?

What would a visit to London be without a ride in the classic Londoner Cab?

Even though it felt like it had no springs left, we were happy to have flagged down an old model, destined to be retired in just a few weeks.

Even though it felt like it had no springs left, we were happy to have flagged down an old model, destined to be retired in just a few weeks.

After a final goodbye to our luxury hideaway, we headed for the airport to catch an Easy-Jet to Amsterdam.

We said farewell to our luxury hideout and headed for the airport. Next stop is Amsterdam.

We said farewell to our luxury hideout and headed for the airport. Next stop is Amsterdam.

 

 

 

 

 

 

England #7 (London #4) 5-13

June 13, 2013

Our time to see London was running short so we hit the pavement. Turns out walking is perhaps the best way to see many of London’s most famous attractions. Of the hundreds of monuments scattered around the city, the obelisk presented to the British Nation in 1819 by Mohammed Ali, Viceroy of Egypt, is the oldest. Nearby, who could resist a tourist shot in one of London old phone booths?

The obelisk presented to the British Nation in 1819 by Mohammed Ali, Viceroy of Egypt, is the oldest monument on the city.

The obelisk presented to the British Nation in 1819 by Mohammed Ali, Viceroy of Egypt, is the oldest monument on the city.

Two of these bronze sphinxes watch over the Egyptian obelisk, which had laid prostrate for centuries in the sands of Alexandria before being presented to the British Nation in 1819.

Two of these bronze sphinxes watch over the Egyptian obelisk, which had laid prostrate for centuries in the sands of Alexandria before being presented to the British Nation in 1819.

Cell phones have replaced the classic red phone booths on the streets of London, but they still beg for photos.

Cell phones have replaced the classic red phone booths on the streets of London, but they still beg for photos.

St. Paul’s Cathedral was clearly one of London’s gems. This magnificent building has stood on this site for over 1400 years. It is considered architect Sir Christopher Wren’s masterpiece. Both its design and decor are absolutely amazing.

St. Paul's Cathedral has stood on this site for over 1400 years.

St. Paul’s Cathedral has stood on this site for over 1400 years.

The architecture of Sir Christopher Wren’s building is truly amazing.

The architecture of Sir Christopher Wren’s building is truly amazing.

The paintings and mosaics in St. Paul's Cathedral are some of the most beautiful we have ever seen. They contain hundreds of thousands of bits of glass and stone.

The paintings and mosaics in St. Paul’s Cathedral are some of the most beautiful we have ever seen. They contain hundreds of thousands of bits of glass and stone.

It was heart warming to see the chapel behind the main altar is dedicated to the American and British service men who sacrificed their lives during World War II.

The chapel behind the main alter is dedicated to the American and British service men who sacrificed their lives during World War II.

The chapel behind the main alter is dedicated to the American and British service men who sacrificed their lives during World War II.

Just around the corner was a monument honoring Capt. George Blagdon Westcott who fell gloriously in the victory over the French fleet in the Battle of the Nile off Aboukir, Egypt, in the year MDCCXCVIII (1798). Capt. Westcott is actually a distant relative of Gary.

Capt. George Blagdon Westcott who fell gloriously in the victory over the French fleet off Aboukir in the year MDCCXCVIII (1798). Capt. Westcott is actually a distant relative of Gary.

Capt. George Blagdon Westcott who fell gloriously in the victory over the French fleet off Aboukir in the year MDCCXCVIII (1798). Capt. Westcott is actually a distant relative of Gary.

Looking straight up into the multil-leveled dome of St. Paul’s Cathedral can make you dizzy. Yes, you can climb to the top. It’s only 1,161 steps. (A mere 257 to the Whispering Gallery, 376 to the Stone Gallery, and a steep 528 more to the Golden Gallery) The view of all of London is impressive.

Looking straight up into the multi-leveled dome of St. Paul's Cathedral can make you dizzy.

Looking straight up into the multi-leveled dome of St. Paul’s Cathedral can make you dizzy.

Yes, you can climb to the top. It's only 1,161 steps to the top. Are we there yet?

Yes, you can climb to the top. It’s only 1,161 steps to the top. Are we there yet?

It’s a real climb to the top of St Paul’s Cathedral, but the view is worth it.

It’s a real climb to the top of St Paul’s Cathedral, but the view is worth it.

Catch your breath. It’s only 1,161 steps back to the bottom.

Catch your breath. It’s only 1,161 steps back to the bottom.

Our last stop on this day was to stand with 1 foot on each side on the Greenwich Meridian timeline. It sort of reminded us of when we stood with 1 foot on each side of the equator in Ecuador.

If you arrive at the Greenwich Meridian timeline at the right time, theoretically, you could stand with one foot in Saturday and the other in Sunday.

If you arrive at the Greenwich Meridian timeline at the right time, theoretically, you could stand with one foot in Saturday and the other in Sunday.

 

England #6 (Godalming) 5-13

June 11, 2013

The historic town of Godalming in Surrey lays on the banks of the River Wey in a hilly, heavily wooded part southwest of London.

Godalming 009

First mentioned in the will of King Alfred the Great (849 – 899) it probably existed 200 years before that during Saxon times. In the year 1300, Godalming was granted the right to hold a weekly market and an annual fair. This was always a crucial step in the importance of the status of a town during the Middle Ages. Its great location between London and Portsmouth encouraged traders to set up stalls and inns for travelers. Godalming developed into a very prosperous town over the next 500 years with major industries such as woolen cloth production, leatherwork and papermaking.

In September 1881, Godalming came to world attention when it became the first town in the world to have a public electricity supply. It was Calder & Barnet who installed a Siemens AC Alternator and dynamo which were powered by a waterwheel, located at Westbrook Mill, on the river Wey and they made electricity available to consumers. Due to flood damage, the town reverted back to street gaslights in 1884. Electricity returned in 1904.

In a recent survey, Godalming was rated the third most desirable place in England to live. How lucky could we be??

Godalming is quite a charming town.

Church Street: The first building on your right is the oldest Pub in Godalming.

The ancient market hall affectionately called The Pepperpot is the center of town.

Godalming’s former town hall is affectionately called “The Pepperpot”.

This is Godalming's Saint Peter and St Paul's Church and old cemetary.

A church has stood on the site of Saint Peter and Saint Paul since at least the mid-ninth century. The church contains carved stones dating back to 820.

We loved exploring this old fashioned hardware store.

We loved exploring this old fashioned hardware store.

Godalming 006

This looms in the local museum reminds of Godaming’s important past.

A couple more historic tidbits:

On Jan. 16, 1698, Russian Czar Peter the Great stayed at the Kings Arms Hotel in Godalming on his way from London to Portsmouth. And the story goes that he didn’t pay his bill but then, what King in those days would have…..

Czar Peter the Great stayed in this hotel over 300 years ago.

In 1698, Russian Czar Peter the Great stayed at the Kings Arms Hotel in Godalming.

This plaque was placed 300 years after Czar Peter the Great visited Godalming.

This plaque was placed to commemorate Russian Czar Peter the Great’s visit 300 years ago.

In 1732, James Edward Oglethorpe (1696-1785) of Westbrook, Godalming was the founder of the colony of Georgia in the USA.

Another famous son of Godalming is Jack Phillips (1887-1902). He was the brave radio operator of the ill-fated RMS Titanic, who stayed on his job sending SOS Morse code messages until he drowned on the sinking ship on April 15, 1912.

Godalming 005

Jack Phillips, the brave radio operator on the RMS Titanic, sent SOS morse codes until he met his death.

Gertrude Jekyll (1843-1932), a world reknowned  garden designer who created over 400 gardens in Europe and the United States, lived just outside Godalming.

And last but not least:

In 1726, a Godalming maidservant called Mary Toft hoaxed the town into believing that she had given birth to rabbits. The foremost doctors of the day came to witness the freak event and for a brief time the story caused a national sensation. Eventually Mary was found out after a porter was caught smuggling a dead rabbit into her chamber, she confessed to inserting at least 16 rabbits into herself and faking their birth.

Sources: Wikipedia/town museum

England #5 London #3 5-13

June 9, 2013

So many museums. So little time. We hopped on the Hop-On-Hop-Off tour bus to save some walking and while we did get a passing glance of some of the thousands of attractions, it was still a challenge to negotiate the masses of tourists doing the same thing. Riding over the famous Tower Bridge, often mistaken for the equally famous London Bridge, now in Arizona, was interesting, but we would need to take a closer look on foot. Museums have their unique exhibits, but some displays are pretty weird. Even using the bus to get around, we were doing good to see three things in one day, allowing time to catch the train back to our hideout in Godalming.

We hopped on the Hop-On-Hop Off tour bus to save some walking.

We hopped on the Hop-On-Hop Off tour bus to save some walking.

The famous Tower Bridge is often mistaken for the equally famous London Bridge, now in Arizona.

The famous Tower Bridge is often mistaken for the equally famous London Bridge, now in Arizona.

The London skyline begs for a closer look on foot.

The London skyline begs for a closer look on foot.

This stone turtle in the British Museum’s Ancient Middle East section reminded us of how we usually travel.

This stone turtle in the British Museum’s Ancient Middle East section reminded us of how we usually travel.

Museums have their points of interest, but this wall hanging made of thousands of wine bottle foils made Gary wonder why. Surely the artist didn’t drink all that wine -- or maybe he did.

Museums have their points of interest, but this wall hanging made of thousands of wine bottle foils made Gary wonder why. Surely the artist didn’t drink all that wine — or maybe he did.

Somewhere inside this sarcophagus lies a beautiful Egyptian woman.

Somewhere inside this sarcophagus lies a beautiful Egyptian woman.

On the 700th anniversary of the Swiss Confederation, this area was named the “Swiss Court” as a token of the lasting friendship between Switzerland and the United Kingdom. The Cantonal Tree displays the coats of arms of the twenty-six cantons of Switzerland.

On the 700th anniversary of the Swiss Confederation, this area was named the “Swiss Court” as a token of the lasting friendship between Switzerland and the United Kingdom. The Cantonal Tree displays the coats of arms of the twenty-six cantons of Switzerland.

Yeah, we know the feeling after a day trudging around London.

Yeah, we know the feeling after a day trudging around London.

London is a MAJOR tourist attraction. Note the five red buses in the background on famous Trafalgar Square with Lord Nelson’s statue honoring his major victory against the French and Spanish armada in 1805.

London is a MAJOR tourist attraction. Note the five red buses in the background on famous Trafalgar Square with Lord Nelson’s statue honoring his major victory against the French and Spanish armada in 1805.

 

England #4 (London #2) 5-13

June 6, 2013

High on our list of things to see in London was the famous Changing of the Guard at Buckingham Palace. Recommendations were to get there early. It looked like others had the same idea, like a couple of thousand people. Supposedly, the best location to watch the proceedings is the upper-level of the huge statue honoring Queen Victoria, but we could see that was already packed. We wormed our way through the masses and found a slot only one deep from the fence. Then we waited. And waited. And waited.

The ritual starts well before 11 o’clock. The actual changing of the guard takes place supposedly at 11:30. After an hour and a half of carefully watching various groups of British soldiers marching about, I think we may have seen the moment, the guard changed, but I’m not really sure. The entire proceeding is unique and very British. It’s something you must see once, but probably not twice.

Based on the number of buttons and the color of the plumes on their bearskin hats, we, as experts, could tell if they were Welsh, Irish, Scottish, Coldstream or Grenadier Guards. The big black bearskin hats perched atop the heads of straight-faced soldiers has been a tradition for almost 200 years, but they have become controversial and seem likely to be replaced with a more modern, humane alternative.

The solitary guard protecting the Queen at Buckingham Palace does get to move occasionally.

The solitary guard protecting the Queen at Buckingham Palace does get to move occasionally.

Based on the number and placement of buttons and the color of the plumes on their bearskin hats, we, as experts, knew that these were Welsh Guards, maybe.

Based on the number and placement of buttons and the color of the plumes on their bearskin hats, we, as experts, knew that these were Welsh Guards, maybe.

Notice the AK-47s. These are not flintlock muskets anymore.

Notice the AK-47s. These are not flintlock muskets anymore.

The Flag Bearers. See the different placement of buttons? On the right is an Irish Grenadier Guard---we think.

The Flag Bearers. See the different placement of buttons? On the right is an Irish Grenadier Guard—we think.

The guard has been changed and it’s back to the barracks.

The guard has been changed and it’s back to the barracks.

Buckingham Palace, the home of her Majesty, Queen Elisabeth II, head of the British Monarchy.

Buckingham Palace, the home of her Majesty, Queen Elisabeth II, head of the British Monarchy.

Obviously, we were not the first to arrive at Buckingham Palace.

Obviously, we were not the first to arrive at Buckingham Palace.

Supposedly the best location to watch the proceedings of the changing of the guard is the upper-level of the huge statue honoring Queen Victoria.

Supposedly the best location to watch the proceedings of the changing of the guard is the upper-level of the huge statue honoring Queen Victoria.

Standing 25 meters (85 feet) high and made of 2,300 tons of gleaming white marble, the Victoria Memorial pays homage to Queen Victoria who reigned from 1837 until her death in 1901.

Standing 25 meters (85 feet) high and made of 2,300 tons of gleaming white marble, the Victoria Memorial pays homage to Queen Victoria who reigned from 1837 until her death in 1901.

Even Monika could not get into the gate of Buckingham Palace. Maybe she just needs a bearskin hat?

Even Monika could not get into the gate of Buckingham Palace. Maybe she just needs a bearskin hat?

 

 

England #3 (London #1) 5-13

June 4, 2013

Of course we had to see in London. The problem is there is so much history and so many statues and so many buildings and monuments and fountains and museums and beautiful parks; it would take months to see everything. We really had to pick and choose. We did take a tour on one of the double-decker buses. Their advantage is that you can hop on and hop off at different locations. The downside is that traffic can be horrible. Streets are jammed with hundreds of classic London taxicabs and red double-decker buses. From one vantage point I counted 17 double-decker buses in a block and a half area, creeping through the traffic like a herd of lost elephants. We realized that in most cases, we’d be better off walking. The bus tour guides have so much to cover and speak so fast, we could barely understand what they were saying. London is an amazing City. It will take us days just to see the highlights. Fortunately there are plenty of cute cafés and pubs where we could study the map and catch our breath.

The train from Goldaming where we are staying was just an hour from the center of London.

The train from Godalming where we are staying was just an hour from the center of London.

Among the hundreds of historic buildings one cannot miss Big Ben and the British Parliament.

Among the hundreds of historic buildings one cannot miss Big Ben and the British Parliament.

The interesting thing about Big Ben is that it’s not the name of the clock. It's the giant bell that rings on the quarter hour that’s called Big Ben.

The interesting thing about Big Ben is that it’s not the name of the tower. The giant bell that rings on the quarter hour is called Big Ben.

London has many beautiful parks to stroll through and since it was Spring, flowers were in full bloom.

London has many beautiful parks to stroll through and since it was Spring, flowers were in full bloom.

Being a tourist is tiring. Fortunately there are cute cafés where we could catch our breath and study the guidebook.

Being a tourist is tiring. Fortunately there are cute cafés where we could catch our breath and study the guidebook.

Wherever you go there are amazing beautiful statues. This bronze lion beneath the monument to Lord Nelson in Trafalgar Square begged for a picture.

Wherever you go there are amazing beautiful statues. This bronze lion beneath the monument to Lord Nelson in Trafalgar Square begged for a picture.

The London Eye is a giant Ferris wheel situated on the banks of the River Thames. It is the tallest Ferris wheel in Europe.

The London Eye is a giant Ferris wheel situated on the banks of the River Thames. It is the tallest Ferris wheel in Europe.

England #2 (Portsmouth) 5-13

June 2, 2013

There has been no lack of things to do and places to see. We did take a short trip to the historic Naval town of Portsmouth where we stayed with Monika’s distant aunt and toured two of the most important restored British warships. The HMS Victory is a 104-gun first-rate battle ship of the Royal Navy. Launched in 1765, she is most famous as Lord Nelson’s flagship at the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805, which stopped the French and Spanish armada in their tracks and gave the British supreme control of the seas for a hundred years. With a crew of over 700, she could fire her 104 cannons at the rate of one shot every 90 seconds.

Horatio Nelson, 1st Viscount Nelson, KB (29 September 1758 – 21 October 1805) was a flag officer who became famous for his service in the Royal Navy, particularly during the Napoleonic Wars. He was noted for his inspirational leadership and superb grasp of strategy and unconventional tactics, which resulted in a number of decisive naval victories. He was wounded several times in combat, losing one arm and the sight in one eye. Of his several victories, the best known and most notable was the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805. (Wikipedia)

At the Battle of Trafalgar, Lord Nelson was shot and lost his life but he lived long enough to learn they had won. He was not buried at sea as would have been customary. To preserve his body for proper burial, they placed him in a barrel of rum. Lord Nelson was brought back to England for a state funeral at St. Paul’s Cathedral in London where he is entombed. His death at Trafalgar secured his position as one of Britain’s most heroic figures. Numerous monuments, including Nelson’s Column in Trafalgar Square, London, have been created in his memory and his legacy remains highly influential.

The HMS Victory is a 104-gun warship of the Royal Navy. Launched in 1765, she is most famous as Lord Nelson's flagship.

The HMS Victory is a 104-gun warship of the Royal Navy. Launched in 1765, she is most famous as Lord Nelson’s flagship.

The Victory’s living quarters for the Captain, Commander and other officers looked like a three story apartment house.

The Victory’s living quarters for the Captain, Commander and other officers looked like a three story apartment house.

The Battle of Trafalgar in 1805 stopped the French and Spanish armada in their tracks and gave the British supreme control of the seas for a hundred years.

The Battle of Trafalgar in 1805 stopped the French and Spanish armada in their tracks and gave the British supreme control of the seas for a hundred years.

The equally impressive HMS Warrior, the first steel-clad warship, was built for the Royal Navy in 1859–60 and the pride of Queen Victoria’s fleet. She was the biggest and most powerful warship in the world at that time and had a profound effect on naval architecture. Yet within a few years, she was obsolete.

We really enjoyed touring this  ship. It was authentically outfitted just like it was about to take off to a distant war. With a crew of over 700, she could fire her 104 cannons at the rate of one shot every 90 seconds.  The soldiers slept in hammocks above the cannons. The center had a big kitchen with huge copper kettles. There was even livestock on board, well, a stuffed sheep and a few chickens….

HMS Warrior, the biggest and most powerful warship in the world in 1860.

HMS Warrior, the biggest and most powerful warship in the world in 1860.

It needed eight men to steer the Warrior, four on each wheel. One side moved the rudder and simultaneously, the second side took the slack out of the line as it stretched.

It needed eight men to steer the HMS Warrior, four on each wheel. One side moved the rudder and simultaneously, the second side took the slack out of the line as it stretched.

The Warrior could fire its 104-gun arsenal at the rate of one shot every 90 seconds. There were 8 men to each cannon, each with a very specific job.

The HMS Warrior could fire its 104-gun arsenal at the rate of one shot every 90 seconds. There were 8 men to each cannon, each with a very specific job.

Unfortunately, the brand new museum for the third ship at the HM Naval Base, the HMS Mary Rose, was not quite open yet. Built in 1512, it had been the favorite battleship of King Henry VIII. In 1545, the English Tudor warship sank in the Solent, the straights north of the Isle of White, while leading the attack against a French invasion fleet.

The wreck of the Mary Rose was rediscovered in 1971 and salvaged in 1982 by the Mary Rose Trust in one of the most complex and expensive projects in the history of maritime archaeology. The surviving section of the ship and thousands of recovered artefacts are of immeasurable value as a Tudor-era time capsule. The finds include weapons, sailing equipment, naval supplies and a wide array of objects used by the crew. Many of the artefacts are unique to the Mary Rose and have provided insights into topics ranging from naval warfare to the history of musical instruments. (Wikipedia) They also found many human remains and the skeleton of a dog nicknamed “Hatch” because that’s where he was found.

She was armed with new types of heavy guns that could fire through the recently invented gun-ports. After being substantially rebuilt in 1536, she was also one of the earliest ships that could fire a broadside, although the line of battle tactics that employed it had not yet been developed. Several theories have sought to explain the demise of the Mary Rose, based on historical records, knowledge of 16th-century shipbuilding and modern experiments. However, the precise cause of her sinking is still unclear, because of conflicting testimonies and a lack of conclusive physical evidence. (Wikipedia)

The HMS Mary Rose, King Henry VIII favorite warship is now preserved in its own museum at Portsmouth, England

The HMS Mary Rose, King Henry VIII favorite warship, is now preserved in its own museum at Portsmouth, England

 

 

 

England #1 (Arrival) 5-13

May 31, 2013

We have crossed the big water and we are now in this strange country called Great Britain. Strange indeed. They do speak English — sort of. The steering wheels on cars are on the wrong side, and if that wasn’t enough to make you nervous, they insist on driving on the bloody wrong side of the road.

It feels like we are learning a new language: Americans know about the British lorry and the bonnet but you park the car in – what else – the car park, in a restaurant you ask for the toilet, a train station is a rail station and an emergency call button is a help point, just to name a few. It all makes perfect sense.

Our home away from home is a luxury apartment over the carriage house on an estate near the small town of Godalming, Surrey, about 30.5 miles (49.1 km) southwest of London. In the United States, if something is over 100 years old, it’s historic. Godalming was founded around 600 AD, that gives “historic” a different meaning. An old friend of Monika’s is the manager of this beautiful estate. We were invited to stay as long as we needed.

The main house is a wonderfully restored English mansion situated on five acres of landscaped grounds. Facilities include a swimming pool, a tennis court, a sauna and an exercise room. Our apartment has all the comforts of a modern condo, including dishwasher, clothes washer, a full modern kitchen, high-speed internet and a big-screen TV with Netflix. The ultra modern bathroom is bigger than our camper!

The bus stop is a ten-minute walk away and the trains run frequently. Nothing is cheap. An English “pound” (GBP) is about $1.56, so a cup of coffee will set you back $3.90—no refills. If you’re homesick, a jar of Jif peanut butter is going to run $8.50 or a bag of M&Ms $10.18. (Eat them one at a time.)

When the sun comes out, we take advantage to explore the nearby Winkworth Arboretum with its lake and miles of walking trails. The famous English Bluebells create a colorful carpet in the open forest and the azaleas and rhododendrons are in full bloom at the moment. The latter are the largest we have ever seen in our lives. On the lake, the cute ducklings are busy learning to catch bugs and they pop out of the water like little fire crackers. People are friendly and greet one another when passing. Our short “hi” is usually replied to with a more formal “good morning” or “good afternoon”. It’s a peaceful place to be.

For security reasons, this not the home we are staying at, but very similar in style and size.

For security reasons, this is not the estate we are staying at, but very similar in style and size.

9.9 oz of almond M&Ms.  $10.18 Better eat them slowly.

9.9 oz of almond M&Ms cost $10.18 Better eat them slowly.

A pound of Jif peanut butter costs 5.45 pounds, or $8.50, so spread it thin.

A pound of Jif peanut butter costs GBP 5.45, or $8.50, so spread it thin.

English Bluebells carpeted the forest floor.

English Bluebells carpet the open forest floor.

When the park was created many years ago, these azaleas were planted.

These azaleas were planted when the park was created many years ago.

These are the largest rhododendron we have ever seen.

These are the largest rhododendron we have ever seen.

The lake is stocked and fly fishing is a popular sport.

The lake is stocked and fly fishing is a popular sport.

If you look the top of these fern you understand why they got the nickname fiddle head.

If you look at the top of these fern you understand why they got the nickname “fiddlehead”.

 

 

 

Across the USA 2013 #12 (Turtle Delivery to Port)

May 29, 2013

We have been working with Murphy for many years. We know his 1st law; “If anything can go wrong, it probably will.” We waited patiently in the dusty parking lot of A1 Escort Service near the Port of Baltimore. In order to enter the Port, either to pick up something or to deliver something to be shipped, you need a certified escort with the proper credentials, preferably one who knows where he’s going, where you need to go, what papers you need to have, (which ones you don’t need), and who to give them to.

Seabridge International had recommended A1 Escort Service. As the clock ticked after the two-hour lunch break we started to wonder if we’re going to spend the night there. Because of morning traffic into Baltimore, we had been advised not to leave Wrightsville PA before 9:00 AM. That meant we actually arrived at A1 Escort Service’s parking lot about 11:00 AM.

Not to worry. Garret Taylor, the owner of A1 Escort Service, arrived and when he saw that we were still waiting, things started to happen. Paperwork in hand, I followed Garrett through a maze of potholed side roads to the entry of the Baltimore Port. Monika had to stay behind. Only one person is allowed to enter the Dundalk Marine Terminal with the vehicle being shipped.

First stop was a massive 15-foot high gate like something you’d see in a penitentiary. I parked next to a tall pillar obviously designed for semi truck drivers. Garrett jumped out of his escort car and reached up to grab the phone and hand it to me. The person on the other end lethargically asked me for my name, driver’s license number and if I had some other paper – (I could barely understand her). Garrett just told me to say yes. After a short pause, a white slip of paper popped out of the slot below the phone. I grabbed it and we continued to the next gate where a second officer inspected my driver’s license and my white entry slip, gave a friendly wave to Garrett, and opened the crossbar. We then wound our way through a maze of warehouses and parking lots. I followed carefully, snapping pictures along the way. The first stop was Customs. There were a couple of drivers waiting but it took only a few minutes. Two different people inspected the documents Garrett instructed me to hand them, including the original Vehicle Certificate of Title. I did have a stack of other documents including multiple copies of the Vehicle Certificate of Title, an official letter from the Department of Treasury Internal Revenue Service with my taxpayer identification number and my Passport, none of which were needed.

We then proceeded through the continuing maze of parking lots to a second building. I’m still not sure what the function of that office is. They did re-inspect all the paperwork again, including the original of the Certificate of Title. There was no problem but they asked when we’re going to be returning with the vehicle. When I said it would probably be 3 years, the officer raised his eyebrows, pause for a moment, and stamped the original title “EXPORT APPROVED”. Beneath the stamp it said “US Customs and Border Protection”. Since I thought we had already been through Customs, this office must have been a secondary Customs and Border Protection check.

We then drove around a couple of warehouses to a large parking lot full of 5th wheel and travel trailers. Garrett directed me to what he considered a safe place to park and we waited. After about 5 minutes, agent Lewis Hubbard arrived in a golf cart with his clipboard in hand. He checked the VIN number and looked the vehicle over. He noted that all external compartments were securely double locked except for the driver’s door.

He then asked me if we had carefully measured the vehicle. I said yes we had. He asked me if I was satisfied with those measurements. I said yes. He said, “That’s good for me.” I handed him the key to the ignition and took a few more pictures  including some of the outside of the truck and camper, showing that there was no damage at this time. I was surprised and relieved by how simple it all was and how friendly everyone was. Lewis assured me the parking/holding area was well lit and under 24-hour video surveillance. He said with the vehicle parked right under the Custom’s nose, they didn’t encounter much crime.

We drove back to the office of A-1 Escort and paid $62.50. Garret apologized for the delay and gave us a ride to the Transportation Center to catch a taxicab to the underground and eventually to the airport. Where was Murphy? Aside from proper preparation, we could not believe how simple the whole process had been.

The next day we landed at Heathrow International Airport in London, England where an old friend of Monika’s met us. Sinking into the plush leather seats of the Range Rover, we had arrived. Never mind that our Turtle V would be sitting in the Port of Baltimore holding lot for 10 days, waiting for the next ship to dock. It was time to go to a Pub and have a pint of ale and some proper fish & chips.

We were beginning to wonder if we were going to spend the night in the parking lot of A1 Escort Services.

We were beginning to wonder if we were going to spend the night in the parking lot of A1 Escort Services.

We wound our way through a maze of warehouses and parking lots. I followed carefully, snapping pictures along the way.

We wound our way through a maze of warehouses and parking lots. I followed carefully, snapping pictures along the way.

Garret Tayler, the owner of A1 Escort Service, was very knowledgeable and friendly. It helped that every one at the port seemed to know him.

Garret Taylor, the owner of A1 Escort Service, was very knowledgeable and friendly. It helped that every one at the port seemed to know him.

The final Port inspector gave us a friendly wish for a safe trip. He did say the parking/holding area was under 24-hour lights and security cameras.

The final port inspector, Lewis Hubbard, gave us a friendly wish for a safe trip. He did say the parking/holding area was under 24-hour lights and security cameras.

The Turtle V was safely on its way. With a sigh of relief, we relaxed on the underground metro to Dulles International Airport.

The Turtle V was safely on its way. With a sigh of relief, we relaxed on the underground metro to Dulles International Airport.

Arriving in England, it was time to pop into a pub have pint ale and some proper fish & chips.

Arriving in England, it was time to pop into a Pub for a pint of ale and some proper fish & chips.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sources:

 

http://www.a1escortllc.com/

 

 

#1

We were beginning to wonder if we were going to spend the night in the parking lot of A1 Escort Services.

 

#2

We wound our way through a maze of warehouses and parking lots. I followed carefully, snapping pictures along the way.

 

#3

Garret Tayler, the owner of A1 Escort Service, was very knowledgeable and friendly. It helped that every one at the port seemed to know him.

 

#4

The final Port inspector gave us a friendly wish for a safe trip. He did say the parking/holding area was under 24-hour lights and security cameras.

 

#5

The Turtle V was safely on its way. With a sigh of relief, we relaxed on the underground metro to Dulles International Airport.

 

#6

Arriving in England, it was time to pop into a pub have pint ale and some proper fish & chips.