Pájares Pass, Asturias, Spain 8/13

September 25, 2013

Leaving the beautiful Playa Merón, we headed south, following our GPS and several maps of Spain. The route we chose looked like a perfectly good secondary road. It was a hot day and we soon found ourselves climbing up 13% and 15% grades in 3rd or even 2nd gear to get around hairpin corners, with the temperature of the engine bumping 225°F. Our reward was the Paso de Pájares, elevation 4,521 ft, (1378 m), overlooking the coastal range.

A mile or so down from the pass, we stopped next to an abandoned refuge, originally a hospital for the pilgrims following the Camino de Santiago on their way to Oviedo where it connects with the Camino de Santiago on the coast or Route North. Around 1116, Count Fruela Diaz and his wife Stephanie, who had vast holdings throughout this region, wanted to establish a shelter or hospital as a refuge and rest for pilgrims and travelers protection. This type of shelter proliferated in remote and little frequented places where it was needed for the walkers. Apart from the pilgrims, it served as housing for the poor who so requested. It was known as “House of the Probes”.

In 1216, Alfonso IX of Léon, ordered the construction of a church next to the hostel. The new church of Our Lady Saint Mary of Arbas was built in the late Romanesque style. Its two doorways are classic examples. We were quite surprised at its beautiful arched ceilings and cobble stoned floors, and could only imagine the pilgrims who had just struggled uphill for many hours to find this peaceful sanctuary. A jewel in the middle of nowhere; most motorized travelers zooming by must be totally unaware of. It was declared a Historic Artistic Monument in 1931.

After a hot steep climb we finally arrived at Pájares Pass, elevation 4,521 ft, (1378 m).

Stopping for lunch, the air was pleasantly cool.

The view from Pájares Pass back towards Asturias was spectacular.

This hotel on top of Pájares Pass was closed. Nearby is a ski resort.

The Romanesque church near the pass was built in 1216.

The cobbled interior floors of the Romanesque church were fascinating.

This church was built on one of the Camino de Santiago (Way of St. James) routes. We spotted this clamshell styled window in the rear of the church, a tribute to the apostle St. James.

This church was built on one of the Camino de Santiago (Way of St. James) routes. We spotted this scallop shell styled window in the rear of the church, a tribute to the apostle St. James.