Crete 2, Greece – 2/2014

October 9, 2015

Tearing ourselves from an idyllic camp near Elafonissis on the far southwestern tip of the island, we headed through the mountains on a tortuous highway that looked like a snake going crazy. Are there any straight roads on Crete? Our next stop was Chania (Xania).

After days of wild camping on remote beaches, the old Venetian harbor and port of Chania with its narrow streets and waterfront restaurants was a delight. The atmosphere had a touch of Florence and Venice combined with the culture and character of Cretan people and traditions. Parking near the harbor, we were walking distance to the fishing pier and the little hole-in-the-wall taverns. We watched an old fisherman mercilessly beating an octopus on the pier to tenderize it. Later we stumbled onto a little restaurant called Hela and were treated to some wonderful Greek music while we dined on fresh barbecued octopus and other specialties. It was still not the height of tourist season so there was no wild dancing or breaking of plates on the ground. Perhaps we didn’t stay long enough.

Further along the north coast we took the short loop back into the mountains to visit the Holy Monastery of Arkadi which dates back to the 16th-century. Built like a fortress, the monastery played an active role in the Cretan resistance of Ottoman rule during the Cretan revolt in 1866. A sad piece of history: 943 Greeks, mostly women and children, sought refuge in the monastery’s old wine cellar. During the revolt against the Turks it had been used as a storeroom for ammunition. After three days of battle and under orders from the abbot of the monastery, the Cretans blew up barrels of gunpowder, choosing to sacrifice themselves rather than surrender. Powder burn marks can still be seen on the walls of the cellar.

Back on the coast we skirted Crete’s capital, Heraklion, to visit the nearby ruins of Knossos, the ancient ceremonial and political center of the Minoan culture, an Aegean Bronze Age civilization that rose on the island of Crete and other Aegean islands, flourishing from approximately 2600 to 1400 BC. It had been referenced in Homer’s Odyssey.

During the Palace’s first period around 2000 BC (that’s 4,000 years ago!) the urban area reached a size of up to 18,000 people. In its peak the Palace and the surrounding city boasted a population of 100,000 people shortly after 1700 BC. Walking along its deserted staircases and over its ceremonial courtyards was an amazing experience. The site was discovered in 1878 by Minos Kalokairinos. The excavations in Knossos began in 1900 by the English archaeologist Sir Arthur Evans and his team, and they continued for 35 years. Some of the original artwork has been restored.

While sitting in the Knossos Museum parking lot eating lunch, a young Cretan couple, Esmeralda Foutaki and Manolis Makrakis, had many questions about our journey and The Turtle V. Later, they spontaneously invited us for a day of sightseeing near Archanes and a delicious home cooked meal in their tidy apartment.

Climbing further into the mountains we came to the village of Myrtia, the birthplace of the famous Greek poet, novelist, essayist, philosopher, playwright, travel writer and philosopher, Nikos Kazantzakis, celebrated for his novel Zorba the Greek. Of the hundreds of his works, his Report to Greco had, without doubt, more influence on my life that any other book I have ever read.

Seeing the beautiful museum of his life in the center of Myrtia and walking around town—driving around the very narrow streets was an exciting adventure—I could feel his spirit, –his soul–, in the air. We camped just out of town. An old couple saw our truck and invited us for sip of their homemade wine. We spoke no Greek and they spoke no English or any of Monika’s other four languages, but we were able to communicate surprisingly well. The woman picked a sweet smelling carnation of her favorite variety from her garden for our mascot turtle, already halfway on its second trip around the world. A local butcher—she—was a charming lady. Agapi Spanaki saved her last side of fresh lamb chops for us the next day. The little car wash at the entrance to town was the perfect place to give The Turtle V a rinse while the owner of the café across the street invited us for coffee and his wife presented us with a bottle of homemade wine. We left feeling we had seen a special side of Crete.

Our final stop was the port of Heraklion from where we would take the ferry back to the mainland of Greece. We had just enough time to visit the fabulous archaeological and historical museum where many of the treasures discovered during the excavations of Knossos and other Minoan sites have been preserved, clearly demonstrating the amazingly advanced culture centuries before the Ancient Greek Civilization was born.

As a final goodbye to Crete and Nikos Kazantzakis, we visited his gravesite. The Nikos Kazantzakis International Airport in Heraklion is named after the famous author.

Below the photo gallery are a few of my (Gary’s) favorite quotes from Report to Greco. May they inspire you as they did me.

: The atmosphere of the old Venetian harbor and port of Chania with its narrow streets and waterfront restaurants was a delight. There was a touch of Florence and Venice in the air.

: We watched an old fisherman mercilessly beating an octopus on the pier to tenderize it.

: Parking near the harbor, we were walking distance to the fishing pier.

: We followed little side streets back into the heart of the old port town.

: Fresh barbecued octopus was not to be missed.

: We stumbled onto a little restaurant called Hela and were treated to some wonderful Greek music.

: Monika was enjoying the last course of a wonderful meal.

: There was no wild dancing nor breaking of plates on the floor. Perhaps we didn’t stay long enough.

: The Holy Monastery of Arkadi dates back to the 16th-century. It is clearly marked by the influence of the Renaissance which mixes both Roman and Baroque elements.

: Gun power burns can still be seen on the walls of the old Arkadi Monastery wine cellar where almost one thousand Greek citizens (mostly women and children) sacrificed themselves rather than surrender to the Turks in 1866.

: The ossuary at the Arkadi monastery preserves the skulls of fighters of the 1866 battle against the Turks.

: Walking along the deserted staircases and over ceremonial courtyards of a civilization that existed over 4,000 years ago was a remarkable experience. For a comparison, the Incan empire in South America lasted from 1438 to 1533 AD. We think that culture is old.

: Monika was very excited to finally be able to explore Knossos and its art she had studied in 9th grade.

: The restored North Entrance of Knossos with the charging bull fresco was very impressive.

: This is the famous Bull Rhyton ivory and gold statue of the Snake Goddess, Potnia, found at Knossos.

: The Bull-Leaping Fresco from the Great Palace at Knossos is interpreted as a depiction of a ritual performed in connection with bull worship.

: The throne in Knossos’ Throne Room looked pretty uncomfortable!

: Griffins were important mythological creatures in the Minoan culture. This Griffin couchant (lying down) was facing the throne.

: The beautiful pottery vessels for wine and olive oil showed the artistic ability of the ancient culture.

: Amphorae were used in vast numbers for the transport and storage of various products, both liquid and dry, but mostly for wine.

: The wonderful details in carafes, oil lamps and household water basins were impressive.

: Gold was always a favorite for special decorative apparel and the Minoan gold smiths were masters.

: The “Ladies in Blue” are part of a composition from the Knossos Palace, Neopalatial period (1700-1450 BC).

: This marble statue of a philosopher may be late 2nd century AD. (Roman era)

: Amazing marble statues brought life back into these ancient cultures.

: This statue of a goat-like Pan from the Roman period, 2nd century AD, was interesting.

: The many displays at the Heraklion archaeological and historical museum clearly demonstrated the amazing art created by Minoan, Greek and Roman cultures that flourished for centuries.

: The marble statues of goddess Aphrodite or a Nymph were often depicted with naked upper body and a cloak around the thighs during the Roman period late 1st century AD.

: We loved the busts of the ancient Greeks and Romans. They give a clear impression of what people looked like before painting or photography.

: Esmeralda Foutaki and Manolis Makrakis graciously extended an invitation to show us one of their favorite spots near Archanes.

: Then they cooked a delicious Cretan meal for us in their tidy apartment.

: We passed orchards of olives and vineyards on our way to the village of Myrtia, the birthplace of Nikos Kazantzakis, author of Zorba the Greek.

: Every little village had a store selling anything a traveler might need.

: In more remote towns, the store came to them. It reminded us of our green grocer back home.

: The little car wash at the entrance to Myrtia was the perfect place to give The Turtle V a rinse.

: Seeing our truck this old couple invited us for sip of their homemade wine and some nuts from their backyard.

: The woman picked a sweet smelling carnation from her favorite variety for our mascot turtle, already halfway on its second trip around the world.

: The local butcher in Myrtia, Agapi Spanaki, saved her last side of fresh lamb chops for us the next day. She spoke English well, and we had quite a lively conversation.

: Seeing the beautiful museum Nikos Kazantzakis in the center of Myrtia and walking around town—driving around the very narrow streets was an exciting adventure—I could feel his spirit –his soul– in the air.

: The final resting place of the famous Greek poet, novelist, essayist, philosopher, playwright, travel writer and philosopher, Nikos Kazantzakis, known for his most famous work, Zorba the Greek.

“The truth is that we all are one, that all of us together create god, that god is not man’s ancestor, but his descendant.” – Nikos Kazantzakis, Report to Greco

“All my life one of my greatest desires has been to travel – to see and touch unknown countries, to swim in unknown seas, to circle the globe, observing new lands, seas, people, and ideas with insatiable appetite, to see everything for the first time and for the last time, casting a slow, prolonged glance, then to close my eyes and feel the riches deposit themselves inside me calmly or stormily according to their pleasure, until time passes them at last through its fine sieve, straining the quintessence out of all the joys and sorrows.” – Nikos Kazantzakis, Report to Greco

“Reach what you cannot”- Nikos Kazantzakis, Report to Greco

“Man is able, and has the duty, to reach the furthest point on the road he has chosen. Only by means of hope can we attain what is beyond hope.”- Nikos Kazantzakis, Report to Greco

“Once more I realized to what an extent earthly happiness is made to the measure of man. It is not a rare bird which we must pursue at one moment in heaven, at the next in our minds. Happiness is a domestic bird found in our own courtyards.”- Nikos Kazantzakis, Report to Greco

Filed under:
Greece, Trans-Eurasian Odyssey by Turtle Expedition