The Black Sea, Turkey 20 – 6/2014

September 22, 2016

Escaping the dimly lit tunnels of Derinkuyu, we felt like moles coming out of our hole. We had to wonder how thousands of people could live in such conditions for months at a time.

Our travel clock was ticking a little faster now and we headed directly to Ankara, the capital of Turkey, to “try” to get our visa for Turkmenistan. More on that joke later. Georgia did not require a visa nor did Kyrgyzstan. We received our visa for Tajikistan in Istanbul and we had an email-visa for Azerbaijan. David Berghof at Stantours in Almaty, Kazakhstan, had arranged our paperwork and visa for Uzbekistan that gave us permission to “wild camp” for two out of every three nights. While we still did not have a visa for China, we did have an absolute etched-in-stone date when we had to meet our guide at the border.——tick, tick, tick, tick.

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This gentleman was the owner of a grocery store where Gary was able to use a propane exchange tank to fill our almost empty bottle.

Wishing we had another year or two to explore other parts of Turkey, we sped north on good highways toward the Black Sea. As excellent as the highways and freeways were, there is always construction. Outside of Samsun was unusually chaotic with lanes being closed and detours around work areas. Then it happened. Three lanes merged into one lane with very little warning. As a white van tried to merge in front of me from the right, I swerved to the left and my mirror caught the edge of a road construction sign. The sound was horrible and the damage was obvious. The mirror had exploded. I parked while Monika ran back to pick up some pieces but they were useless.

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This Turkish mechanic spontaneously took over Monika’s job of lowering the spare tire. No, we did not have a flat. Gary wanted to put the spare into rotation.

Driving the next 20,000 miles through insanely maddening traffic without a side mirror was out of the question, but like Mexico or Russia, Turkey is a land of can-do. We hadn’t driven 5 miles before we saw the sign for automotive repairs. There were dozens of garages specializing in various mechanical problems from transmissions to windshields. We found a small shop on one of the back lanes who not only had replacement mirrors, (apparently broken mirrors were a common problem), but in our case, he simply took the frame from our broken mirror, cut a duplicate and siliconed it in place. The remote electric controls were history but the mirror was still adjustable. If that was the worst incident on this whole trip we would be lucky.

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Boys are always fascinated with The Turtle V.

Harbors make great places to stop for the night. Local fishermen and kids hanging around fishing piers were friendly and curious. After a couple of peaceful nights overlooking the Black Sea we turned inland for one last side trip to visit the village of Uzungöl.

Located in a green valley between high rising mountains overlooking a pretty lake, it sounded like a nice place to spend a day or two. In the center of town was a beautiful mosque. Unfortunately, the tourist trade had discovered Uzungöl so there were several restaurants, hotels and tourist shops. We found safe camping in a large parking lot on the other side of the lake. The apparent peacefulness of the valley was broken periodically by the “call to prayer”. Though we had been accustomed to this in Istanbul, the religious leaders in Uzungöl didn’t want anybody to miss out. Loudspeakers on light posts and telephone poles throughout town echoed the muezzin’s voice across the lake. Apparently, it has become a popular place to visit for the more extreme Saudi Arabia Muslims, with the women dressed in their full body armor.

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The pretty valley of Uzungöl was our last stop in Turkey.

Thanks to our ongoing connection with Internet using our Vodafone EuroSim card, we were starting to get reports from other travelers, very few that there were. One particularly interesting blog was about “The Tunnel from Hell” or “The Tunnel of Death” in Tajikistan. Started in 2006 by the Russians but never finished, it is 5 kms., (3 mi.), of narrow 1 & 1/2 and 2-lane potholes, very few lights and almost no ventilation. Choking smoke from belching diesel trucks make visibility extremely limited. Locals have shared stories of people dying inside due to traffic jams when they were trapped as they succumbed to carbon monoxide. We will tell you more about that as we get closer. Sounds like a fun place huh?

Back on the main road we headed up the coast on the superhighway, hopping from harbor to harbor. The area is known for black tea and we could see the bushes growing on the sides of the mountains. With fuel being almost $7.00 a gallon in Turkey, we didn’t want to fill up until we reached Georgia, but we had to get a couple of gallons, so we pulled off onto a frontage road. A truck stop had a large paved parking area where I asked permission to do a quick spare tire to rear swap, getting our spare into circulation. Of course they said no problem and even helped me take the tire off and used air wrenches to tighten lug nuts.

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Yes, some Turks have blue eyes. Turkey has been a melting pot of European and Central Asian cultures for centuries.

Right across the street we happened to notice a little general-purpose store with exchange propane tanks. We weren’t out yet but since we knew we had the correct adapter for the Turkish exchange tanks, I walked over and asked if we could borrow a tank and just pay for the fuel. No problem. Ended up meeting the man’s family, taking pictures and even camping there for the night. Once again, the process of filling a propane tank took about three minutes. I will discuss this later in a special blog but the thing to bear in mind is that propane is not a gas, it’s a liquid. LPG stand for “liquid petroleum gas”.

Whenever we cross borders we always make sure that the truck is clean, and we are clean and neat. Just makes things go faster. After a quick stop at a roadside restaurant where there was a guy with a one-man carwash business, we crossed into Georgia and took a deep breath after an easy and friendly border crossing. Now where to camp the first night?

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Derinkuyu Underground City, Turkey 19 – 5/2014

September 15, 2016

Before we left the Cappadocia area there was one more place we had to visit. Over the years, we have seen some amazing underground construction. The famous Salt Cathedral of Zipaquirá in Columbia is a Roman Catholic church built within the tunnels of a salt mine 200 meters (660 ft.) underground. The Hole N” The Rock home in Moab, Utah is a 5,000 square foot home with 14 rooms. A cavernous bathroom is referred to as “a toilet in a tomb.” Albert Christiansen spent 12 years drilling and blasting out his hole in the rock, and even then it wasn’t finished when he died in 1957.

This large room might have been used for assemblies or church services.

This large room might have been used for assemblies or church services.

Given the engineering skills of the Swiss it’s not a big reach to grasp how they built the Forte Ospizio San Gottardo in 1894 at the summit of the Gotthard Pass, Switzerland. The Fort mounted two single 120mm gun turrets, both capable of reaching the Italian border. Completely underground and out of sight, the complex included dormitories, kitchens, ammunition depots, generators, repair shops, field hospitals, rooms for the sick, bakeries, etc. and provided space enough to accommodate 100 to 600 soldiers for a timespan of up to several months.

Now we stand in front of Derinkuyu, (“Deep Well”), Yeralti Sehri, (“Underground City”). Located in Cappadocia, Derinkuyu is a large multi-level underground city. It provided a refuge for the region’s Proto-Anatolian inhabitants through the ages. From Byzantine times through 1923, it was known by its Cappadocian Greek inhabitants as Malakopea. It served as a refuge from the raids of the Umayyad Arab and Abbasid armies. The city, and we can call it a city because it had the capacity for 20,000 people, contained living quarters, food stores, kitchens, stables, churches, wine and oil presses, ventilation shafts, wells, and a religious school. It has at least eight levels with a depth of 85 m, (280 ft.).

No elevators, only hand carved rock steps.

No elevators, only hand carved rock steps.

Now open to the public, as we walked through its tunnels, rooms and pillared caverns, it was hard to imagine that this was all dug by hand; no power tools, no electricity, no dynamite and maybe not even any wheelbarrows. The massive complex may have been excavated one bucket at a time.

The historical region of Cappadocia where Derinkuyu is situated contains over 200 underground cities, carved out of a unique geological formation called tufa. All are at least two levels deep. They are not generally occupied today. Derinkuyu is one of the best examples.

The oldest written source about underground cities is the writings of Xenophon around 370 BC. In his seven-book series, Anabasis, he writes that the people living in Anatolia had excavated their houses underground, living well in accommodations large enough for the family, domestic animals, and supplies of stored food. That’s 2,386 years ago! The city’s origins may even be earlier than that, possibly related to the ancient Persian Zoroastrian tradition. We need not go back any further than that to appreciate these amazing underground feats of labor and engineering.

PS. National Geographic reports that in December 2014 yet another underground city was discovered. This one is even larger than Derinkuyu  and contains over 50 miles of tunnels and 11 levels. It is located under the fortress of Nevşehir in the Cappadocia region and may be the largest in the world.

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Cappadocia, Turkey 18 – 5/2014

September 8, 2016

It was a crisp morning in central Cappadocia. Like melting butter, the warm sun was just oozing across the bizarre landscape. It might have been a Wednesday or a Thursday about 300 AD. Beyda leaned out the door of her two-story home and yelled to her husband: “Ahmet, would you please empty the poop pot? It stinks!! And while you’re down there, bring up a jug of water.” Ahmet yelled back, “ Are we out of water already? You use too much!!” Beyza shouted back, “Don’t complain. It was your idea to build our home inside one of these weird stone pillars”.

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The panoramic view over the Göreme area was impressive.

Weird, strange, bizarre, crazy—all can be used to describe the landscape of Cappadocia in central Turkey. Approximately 9 to 3 million years ago, can’t really be exact, sedimentary rocks formed in lakes and streams, and ingnimbrite deposits were left from ancient volcanoes. After the eruption of Mount Erinyes, about 2000 years ago, ash and lava formed a protective layer of hard rock in the Cappadocia area. Erosion by weather, wind and water left the basalt on top of the softer rock, forming the present day fairy chimneys. If the protective cap falls off, the pillars erode into nothing.

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Uçhisar (also called Uçhisar Castle) is situated at the highest point in Cappadocia, just 5km from Göreme. The top provides a magnificent panorama.

People of the Göreme region discovered that the soft rock called Tufa could easily be carved into houses, churches and monasteries. Some of the churches contain interesting frescoes and elaborate Byzantine art from the post-iconoclastic period (after 842). When the Cappadocian Greeks were expelled from Turkey in 1923 during the population exchange between Greece and Turkey, the churches were abandoned and stayed hidden because only the Christians knew where they were.

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Uçhisar, Cappadocia. How ingenious to realize one can carve out a house instead of building one!

The town of Göreme was a pleasant place to wander around. Having a specially prepared cup of real Turkish coffee was a treat. The street markets were a perfect place to restock on supplies. One van even turned out to be a portable hardware store. Looking for a place to camp for the night, we remembered meeting Dawn, a Scottish woman, at a campground in Italy the previous Christmas. She told us about the pension she and her ex-husband had started many years ago. Now, her daughter, Sabina, runs the completely renovated Köse Pension. Apparently, it used to be favored by hippies and overland travelers. We found it just a couple blocks from the center and it was the perfect place for a base. Sabina was very welcoming and gave us permission to park in front of the complex. The Köse Pension is still a favorite for budget travelers, but you’d never know it from looking at the beautiful rooms and the big swimming pool in the pretty courtyard. We indulged ourselves with a fabulous three-course Turkish feast for a reasonable price. As a bonus, we could even do our laundry, something we hadn’t done since we left Istanbul. The smell of fresh bread awakened us early in the morning and to our delight, there was a wonderful bakery just across the street.

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It was a chilly morning when we took off with the hot air balloon to view the Göreme area from the air.

Göreme’s National Park with its strange rock formations has become a popular tourist destination and is a World Heritage Site since 1985. From the ground level it’s quite an amazing place to walk around, discovering the odd fairy chimneys or wondering how long it took to carve out some of these rock homes. Still, perhaps one of the most exciting ways to see this geological wonder is from the air in a hot air balloon. Sabina gave us some tips on where to find a company that was recommended because of their skilled pilots.

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We are ready for an adventure!

As we lifted off the next day that advise proved to be well taken. The certified pilots of these hot air balloons need to read the wind very carefully, judging where the updrafts and downdrafts occur. Their goal is to get you as close to some of the more interesting formations without bumping into them, drifting up high for an overall view and then maneuvering the balloon back to its appropriate landing point. In our case, the pilot was actually able to land the balloon basket in the bed of a flatbed truck. We all piled out and enjoyed the traditional champagne toast that seems to be an essential part of hot air balloon trips.

 

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Caravanserais, Turkey 17 – 5/2014

September 2, 2016

We were now starting to feel that we were truly following the Silk Road. As we drove northeastward across Turkey, we could imagine long caravans of camels carrying furs, hides, charcoal, iron, gold, wool, jade, silk and other luxury goods traveling from Europe to China and vis versa. Some of these caravans may have been made up of hundreds of camels, “The Ships of the Desert”. Their route was determined by safe stopping points where they could replenish food, water and exchange goods. Small fortresses called caravanserais sprang up. We had not seen any evidence of the “Silk Road” as we crossed Europe except for one caravanserai near the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul.

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Caravans may have been made up of hundreds of camels, “The Ships of the Desert”.
(Source: Silk Road Caravans website: www.factsanddetails.com)

Just for an interesting comparison, between 1683 and 1834 a similar route was established by exploratory Spanish expeditions that included Jesuit or Franciscan missionaries. They established a series of military outposts and missions stretching from Loreto, southern Baja California, all the way to Sonoma, north of San Francisco. It was called El Camino Real or The King’s Highway. The missions were often protected by Spanish military and provided safe havens for travelers whatever their business might have been. At a length of some 600 miles, (965 km) along both Californias, small towns sprung up around the missions like San Diego, Santa Barbara, and San Francisco, long before other highways were built. The original El Camino Real slowly faded into history though today, Highway 101 closely corresponds to the officially recognized El Camino Real.

The Aksaray-Sultanhan is the largest Caravanserai in Turkey.

The Aksaray-Sultanhan is the largest Caravanserai in Turkey.

The Silk Road followed by Marco Polo was such a route, but when it reached Asia Minor and the Mediterranean in the West, it began to fan out in all directions to deliver its precious goods. Caravanserais, like the missions of California, were no longer the only places for travelers to rest and replenish. We have often explored the old missions of California for their romantic history. Now we were excited as we began coming upon ancient caravanserais in Turkey.

A typical large caravanserai consisted of two sections, an open area for use in the summer and a covered one for winter. Fortified walls and a massive gate kept unwanted intruders out. In the center there was often a small mosque for prayers. Around the courtyard were rooms used for the kitchen, dining, bathrooms, and living and sleeping quarters. Other rooms were used for fodder, stables, warehouses for storing goods, and sometimes, doctors, veterinarians, and farriers, (horseshoe makers), were on hand. Many resembled small fortresses with guards in watch towers to protect the caravans from bandits.

These two local kids were delighted to have their photo taken with The Turtle V parked in front of the Obruk Caravanserai.

These two local guys were delighted to have their photo taken with The Turtle V parked in front of the Obruk Caravanserai.

Silk Road goods carried overland were not loaded onto camels and carried to and from China and Europe. They made their long journey in a piecemeal way, with lots of loading, unloading and trading at the caravan stops along the route. Few people traveled the Silk Road from one end to the other as Marco Polo did, or as we were doing.

Caravanserais were free for the first three days. Owners made their money from charging fees for animals, and selling meals and supplies. They often supplemented their income by gathering manure to sell it for fuel or fertilizer. The price for manure was set according to the animal that produced it and how much straw and grass was mixed in. Cow and donkey manure was regarded as high quality because it burned the hottest and kept mosquitos away.

Graffiti on an archway inside Aksaray-Sultan Caravanserai. What might they say?

Graffiti on an archway inside the Aksaray-Sultan Caravanserai. What might it say?

Some of these caravan stops became rich cities, including Khiva, Bukhara, Samarkand and Kashgar, places we will visit in the coming months. As the stopovers grew, they included banks, exchange houses, trading firms, markets, brothels and places where one could smoke hashish and opium. After leading a large caravan of unruly, obnoxious camels across the desert or over the high mountain passes through the Wakhan corridor where winter temperatures could drop below -20°F, some measure of relaxation was probably acceptable.

Unfortunately, we only had one camel, our trusted Turtle V, but we always found safe parking nearby for the night, and being outside gave us the great opportunity to meet the local people.

 

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Konya, Turkey 16 – 5/2016

August 26, 2016

Welcome to Konya, otherwise known as Iconium, and yes, we are still in Turkey, and history runs deep in this part of the world. Excavations have shown that the Konya region was inhabited during the Late Copper Age, around 3000 BC. The city came under the influence of the Hittites around 1500 BC. These were overtaken by the Sea Peoples around 1200 BC. Then there were the Cimmerian invaders in 690 BC and after, it was part of the Persian Empire, until Darius III was defeated by Alexander the Great in 333 BC. Fast forward a little. During the Byzantine Empire the town was destroyed several times by Arab invaders in the 7th–9th centuries. During the Roman Empire, under the rule of emperor Claudius, the city’s name was changed to Claudioconium, and during the rule of emperor Hadrianus to Colonia Aelia Hadriana. See what I mean about history?

So you might be wondering, what are these Whirling Dervishes all about?

Today Konya is one of the most devote Muslim cities in Turkey, but in Christian legend, Iconium was also the birthplace of Saint Thecla. The apostles Paul and Barnabas preached in Iconium during their first Missionary Journey in about 47–48 AD.

For Muslims and non-Muslims alike, the main reason to come to Konya is to visit the Mevlânâ Museum and to witness the famous Whirling Dervishes. The Mevlânâ Museum is one of the biggest pilgrimage centers in Turkey. More than 1.5 million people visit a year, most of them Turkish.

The Mevlânâ Museum is also the mausoleum of Jalal ad-Din Muhammad Balkhi-Rumi, a 13th-century Persian Sufi mystic also known as Mevlânâ or Rumi. At the entrance to the mausoleum, the Ottoman silver door bears the inscription, “Those who enter here incomplete will come out perfect”. We are now perfect!

Many of the exhibits are actually in small cells where the dervishes once lived, like monks in a monastery. Some rooms had life-size mannequins depicting everyday life scenes. There were examples of some of the traditional Turkish musical instruments we would hear later. In the mausoleum there is a casket containing strands of Mohammed’s beard, and a copy of the Koran so tiny that its author went blind writing it.

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Konya is an important pilgrimage town. Women dress according to their custom.

As interesting as the museum was, what we really came to see were the famous Whirling Dervishes. Just down the street we found easy parking at the modern Mevlânâ Cultural Center. So you might be wondering, what are these Whirling Dervishes all about? The members of the Mevlevi Order, named for their founder Mevlevi (Turkish) or Mevlânâ (Persian), belong to the Sunni or orthodox mainstream of Islam. Their ritual is an act of love and a drama of faith. The singing of poetry, rhythmic rotation, and music is mesmerizing, creating a synthesis that, according to the faithful, induces a feeling of soaring, of ecstasy, of mystical flight.

The basis of their worship stems from the belief that the fundamental condition of our existence is to revolve. Think about that. There is no object, no being, which does not revolve. The shared similarity between all created things is the revolution of the electrons, protons, and neutrons within the atoms that constitute their basic structure. From the smallest cell to the planets and the farthest stars, everything takes part in this revolving. Thus, the Whirling Dervishes participate consciously in the shared revolution of all existence. Cool huh?

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The Whirling Dervishes in the Mevlânâ Cultural Center in Konya danced to ever changing lights.

The Mevlevi Sema ceremony represents a spiritual journey; the seeker’s turning toward God and the truth, a maturing through love, the transformation of self as a way of union with God, and the return to life as the servant of all creation. One of the beauties of this seven hundred year old ritual is the way that it unifies the three fundamental components of man’s nature; mind, emotion, and spirit, combining them in a practice and a worship that seeks the purification of all three in the turning towards Divine Unity. But most significantly, the enrichment of this earth and the well-being of humanity as a whole.

The Whirling Dervishes played a vitally important part in the evolution of Ottoman high culture. From the 14th to the 20th century, their impact on classical poetry, calligraphy, and the visual arts was profound, while music was perhaps their greatest achievement.

Interestingly, unlike the hymns we hear in Christian churches, since the dogmatists of Islam’s orthodoxy opposed music as being harmful to the listener and detrimental to religious life, no sacred music or mosque music evolved except for the Mevlud, a poem in praise of the Prophet Muhammad chanted on high occasions or as a requiem. Mevlânâ and his followers integrated music into their rituals as an article of faith. In his verses, Mevlânâ emphasized that music uplifts our spirit to realms above, and we hear tunes of the Gates of Paradise. Consequently, the meeting places of the dervishes became academies of art, music and dance.

 

 

 

 

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Myra, Turkey 15 – 5/2014

August 15, 2016

Following our short visit to Patara, the birthplace of the man we know as Santa Claus, we couldn’t resist stopping in Myra to see the church where he spent much of his life and where he died. According to one source, the earliest substantiated records of Myra was in 168 B.C.

Fast forward to more recent times, in 325 A.D. the area became a Roman province district with Myra as its capital. The bishop of Myra at that time was Saint Nicholas, though he was not canonized until after his death.

St. Nicholas of Myra

St. Nicholas of Myra

Well, as time marched on, the harbor silted up and various earthquakes and invasions left the town and the church in ruins or the state of being rebuilt.  Saint Nicholas was and is of great importance to the Christian world, especially to the Greek and Russian Orthodox. In his lifetime he had a wide reputation for performing miracles and he was known as the protector of children, young people, seamen, travelers and the poor. The St. Nicholas’ tomb in Myra was a popular place of pilgrimage. As a significant religious site, Myra enjoyed considerable commercial benefit because pilgrims needed to be housed, fed, and otherwise provided for.

Italian merchants in both Venice and Bari, Italy, saw an opportunity to bring such advantage to their cities. In 1087 Bari sailors and merchants on their way home from Antioch broke open the tomb with an iron bar. The sailors spirited most of the bones away to the ship, escaping just ahead of the townspeople coming in hot pursuit.

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The once buried St. Nicholas church of Myra was amazingly well preserved.

Now here’s a weird part that I had never heard of. When the sailors first arrived at the church they asked the monks where the “manna” was extracted. What’s manna? According to the St. Nicholas Center’s website, manna is a pure water formed in the tomb of the Saint. One might guess that it is some form of condensation. What’s interesting is that after the remains of St. Nicholas were transported to Bari and the new crypt was built for the purpose, the “manna” continued to be formed and does so to this day. (In Christianity, the “translation of relics” is the removal of holy objects from one locality to another.) Every year on May 9, the Feast of Translation, (of the relics from Myra to Bari), is celebrated. The Rector of the Basilica, in the presence of a delegate of the Pope, solemnly extracts the crystal vial containing about 50 ml of the pure “santa manna”. The liquid is mixed with holy water and distributed to the faithful. Conserved in small ampules or beautifully hand-painted bottles, the liquid is taken as a drink or sprinkled on the part of the body that is suffering from an illness.

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The sanctuary (alter area) of the St. Nicholas church in Myra.

This phenomenon is not easily explainable. The possibility of infiltration of water from the outside has been absolutely eliminated and excluded. It has been proven that the casket containing the bones of the Saint is totally impermeable. Notwith-standing the various solutions that have arrived from numerous hypothesis, whether they may be supernatural or natural expla-nations for the phenomenon, the “manna” is an authentic relic, because it is a liquid that remained in contact with the bones of the Saint. This explains why there is such a great devotion to this day. (In religion, a relic usually consists of the physical remains of a saint or the personal effects of the saint or venerated person preserved for purposes of veneration as a tangible memorial.)

Apparently a similar invasion from a fleet of Crusader ships coming from Venice in 1099 also managed to find a copper urn hidden under the St. Nicholas church floor which was engraved ”Here lies the Great Bishop Nicholas, Glorious on Land and Sea.” It was the rest of the bones that the Bari soldiers had left behind.

The frescos surviving 800 years in alluvial silt were astounding.

The frescos surviving 800 years in alluvial silt were astounding.

Back to Myra, in the late 12th century or early 13th century a natural disaster, probably an earthquake, caused a shift in the bed of the River Miro’s that resulted in a terrible flood. The city of Myra and the church were filled with muddy floodwater and alluvial silts. Today, the new city of Demre lies approximately 6 meters, (20 feet!), above the ground level of Myra and St. Nichols church. So the church and all its amazing frescoes was completely buried for about 800 years. Some serious digging was needed.

In 1963 the eastern and southern sides of the church were excavated. In 1968 the former tomb of St. Nicholas was roofed over. The floor of the church is made of opus sectile, an art technique popularized in the ancient and medieval Roman world where materials were cut and inlaid into walls and floors to make a picture or pattern. Common materials were marble, mother of pearl, and glass. The patterns on the pavements in the interior of the church are examples of the skilled craftsmanship.

The beautiful opus sextile patterns on the pavements and interior walls of the church are examples of the skilled craftsmanship.

The beautiful opus sextile patterns on the floors and interior walls of the St. Nicholas church in Myra are examples of the skilled craftsmanship.

Wall paintings in the burial chamber of the church date to the 12th century. They contain 15 scenes in the life of St. Nicholas. The dome of the prosthesis chamber used by the clergy for preparation of worship contains 12th century paintings of the holy communion of Christ offering bread and wine to the 12 apostles. Numerous other frescos throughout the church would be best interpreted by a theologist, so let the photos tell the story. Just be amazed that they survived.

After all that, if you’ve read this far, you may still be surprised that Santa Claus does not really live in the North Pole with his reindeer and his elves. He actually came from Asia Minor. To quote the famous radio announcer, Paul Harvey, “And now, you know the rest of the story.” If you really want to know more, check out this fascinating website for all the details: www.stnicholascenter.org

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Kaş, Turkey 14 – 5/2014

August 8, 2016

Patara was interesting but we still had not dipped our toes in the inviting water of the Mediterranean. As we headed down the coast, any number of tempting peninsulas invited us to explore the unknown, though with our time schedule hanging over us, we headed straight for the town of Kaş.

The small harbor of Kaş was full of yachts, fishing and cruise boats.

The small harbor of Kaş was full of yachts, fishing and cruise boats.

Kaş had been discovered by the tourist trade but it still had a small town feeling. There was a cramped RV campground on the outside of town. It was clogged with a German motorhome tour so we continued straight down the frontage road that was actually marked “closed to through traffic”, and found a great place to park overlooking the bay and the offshore Greek island of Kastellorizo (Meis in Turkish).

Next to the Kaş harbor, Smiley's outdoor sitting area was pleasantly decorated.

Next to the Kaş harbor, Smiley’s outdoor sitting area was pleasantly decorated.

A short five-minute walk into town brought us to the little yachty harbor where we were immedia-
tely hailed over by the gregarious Ismail Inan, owner of Smiley’s, a cute little café restaurant overlooking the marina. After a complementary cup of Turkish coffee and a glass of wine and some nibbles, we knew we had found the place we had been looking for. When we told Ismail what we were doing and where we had parked our expedition camper, he insisted we move it over to the parking area in front of the harbor. Monika hopped on the back of his motor scooter so he could show her where we should park and where the hose was so we could get water and even wash the truck.

Strolling around town, the plaza was peacefully busy with children playing soccer and people just enjoying the warm afternoon. A guy with a truck was selling fresh produce and the small open market had some great shops for spices and other dry goods. Behind Smiley’s Café we discovered a historic cistern dating back to the fifth century B.C. Carved out of solid stone, it was 40 X 20 ft. The ceiling was held up by seven pillars of carved stone. In recent times it had been used for storing wine, olive oil and vegetables.

The pebble beach near Kaş was warmer than the water but we braved a dip anyway. It was still early in the season.

The pebble beach near Kaş was warmer than the water but we braved a dip anyway.
It was still early in the season.

Not that we were looking for more ruins but just a couple 100 feet from where we had parked our truck by the bay, a path led up to a small, well-preserved Hellenistic theater that could seat 4000 spectators. Monika couldn’t resist climbing up to the top for a picture.

The next morning, we drove around the peninsula to the west of town and found a peaceful pebble beach where we could lay in the sun and swim. We wish we could have stayed a month here, but our visa clock was ticking and the Whirling Dervishes were waiting for us at Konya.

 

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Patara, Turkey 13 – 5/2014

August 4, 2016

Leaving Ephesus, we headed south along the coast of the Mediterranean. We didn’t really want to rush but we could start to feel the pressure of our march route. We had to meet our guide, mandatory for crossing China, on August 28, and now here it was already the middle of May. We had a short four months to cross the next six countries. We could easily spend a year or more just seeing other parts of Turkey, but it was time to get to the water.

Patara-Blog-13-19Patara was not really on our must-see list, but one of the things the historical town is known for is its 18 km, (11 mile), beach along the Turkish Riviera. We soon found out there was more than just sand to explore. Patara is said to have been founded by Pataras, the son of Apollo. Like Ephesus, it had a beautiful natural harbor, and again like Ephesus, it was conquered by Alexander the Great and a half a dozen others including Ptolemy Philadelphus of Egypt. The city was finally annexed by the Roman/Greek Empire in 43AD.

One of the most interesting facts is that it was Christianized relatively early and was the home of several bishops from 325 to 879. Nicholas of Myra was born in Patara in 280. Who is that?

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We had to laugh when we found snails hiding in the shade of this lion in Patara.

He suffered persecution under the Emperor Diocletian who exiled and imprisoned him. After his release, Nicholas became the Bishop of what is today the Church the St. Nicholas of Myra. Over the years, stories of his miracles involving rescuing children and working for the poor spread to other parts of the world. He became known as the protector of children and sailors and was associated with gift giving, especially to children. He was a popular saint in Europe until the time of the Reformation in the 1500s, a religious movement that led to the creation of Protestantism, which turned away from the practice of honoring saints.

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A local restaurant was getting ready for the weekend crowd.

St. Nicholas, however, remained an important figure in Holland and the German speaking countries where his feast day was (and still is) celebrated with the giving of gifts to children who behaved well. Dutch immigrants brought St. Nicholas, known to them as Sint Nikolaas or by his nickname Sinter Klaas, and traditions of his feast day to their colonies in America. He became popularized in America as Santa Claus and his gift giving day moved from December 6 to Christmas.

On the way east we will visit the excavation of the Church of St. Nicholas in Myra, but now back to Patara.

We could still imagine a beautiful harbor but today it’s a swamp, choked with sand and bushes. The original site is currently being excavated by a team of Turkish archaeologists and many of the buildings are being carefully restored. A few pictures tell the story better than words.

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Turtle meets turtle. We wondered what they talked about.

We did take time to walk around town and explore the harbor. For several years we had imagined taking a sailing trip into the Mediterranean. I once read a statement in Nikos Kazantzakis’ book, Report to Greco, where he profoundly claimed that “Man could wish for no greater thing than to sail the Aegean in the Springtime”. We saw plenty of sailboats in the harbor that did tours but to our disappointment, we learned that most of them rarely raise their sails. They were basically waterborne tour buses that motored from port to port. Someday we are determined to go back and do a little more research.

 

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Ephesus 3 – Pottery, Turkey 12 – 5/2014

July 25, 2016

Even before recorded history, humans have been creating plates, pots, vases and other things from some kind of clay and decorating them for no functional reason other than their beauty. From the Danish Masters who painted the Royal Floral Danica set of dishes (hundreds of them) commissioned by Catherine the Great of Russia to the famous Delft tiles from the Netherlands, the Azulejo tiles from Portugal, the Moorish tiles from Spain to the Iznik tiles we discovered in mosques in Turkey, the art of painting burnt clay left hardly a culture or country untouched. Monika is particularly entranced by this form of art because her mother, Agnes Mühlebach-Flory, was a master porcelain painter in her own rights.

Turkey Blog Pottery 012When we arrived at the small town of Selçuk near the ruins of Ephesus, we were just looking for a place to camp for the night. We spotted a large parking area. In the back, it looked like a family of Gypsies was sitting around the camp fire. Hey! Our kind of people. We pulled in and set up camp. Turns out it was not a campground but we could stay the night for five bucks and there was even a guard.

Turkey Blog 12 007The next day after visiting the Ephesus ruins and later the wonderful silk rug factory we discovered another treasure. The parking lot where we had camped was part of a wonderful pottery factory and school called Ephesus Ceramic Production Center. The artist and teacher, Said Lemghir, invited us in for the tour. The quality of the art we saw was jaw-dropping. Each piece was hand thrown on a wheel and then meticulously hand painted before being glazed.

The photos here might show why we were tempted to buy some beautiful souvenirs at prices only found at the source, but prudence dictated our selections, knowing that many of these plates, while very usable for food, would be better off hung on the wall. When selecting such treasures on the road, we must always consider first, where we can actually display or use them back home and secondly, given the roads we have yet to follow around the world, will they survive in one piece.

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Ephesus 2 – Silk Carpets, Turkey 11 – 5/2014

July 12, 2016

Persian carpets have been treasured for centuries. Once when I was visiting a small village in a remote area of Iran I remember watching a young girl, maybe she was 12 or 13, sitting on a dirt floor in a small room, nearly in the dark because there was no electricity. She was painstakingly weaving on a loom, one thread at a time, carefully tying a knot and then trimming it to the correct length. I could already see the beautiful pattern she was creating but I guessed at the time it would take her a couple more years to finish the relatively small carpet.

Monika is trying her hand on the art of unraveling silk cocoons. The water is very hot.

Monika is trying her hand on the art of unraveling silk cocoons. The water is very hot.

Carpets are traditionally made in villages by family groups of women who work in their homes with primitive looms that lie on the floor and just three tools: scissors, a comb and a knife with a hooked blade. Most of the designs are created from memory and have been passed down to each generation from mother to daughter.

While many beautiful carpets have been produced throughout Central Asia including Iran, Afghanistan, Turkmeni-stan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan, etc. the tribes in the area we now call Turkey also must have been among the weaving masters, creating beautiful works of art from wool long before the magic material called silk came across the mountains on the Silk Road from China.

The long silk threads are wound up into skeins.

The long silk threads are reeled onto a spinning wheel.

When silk was discovered in China, it was used primarily for cloth. Silk carpet making was not a Chinese tradition. It was born of wool weaving done by Central Asian nomadic tribes. Separated by huge land barriers; deserts and mountains; different techniques evolved.

During our recent stop in Selçuk near the ruins of Ephesus, we were fortunate to be invited to visit the wonderful Carpetium Manufacturing showroom and weaving school. It was a fascinating experience to see the process of weaving silk, starting with the unraveling of the cocoon and going all the way to the finished product. While one can argue that silk carpets are better than wool, both greatly depend on the quality of material and skill of the weaver. Silk carpets are often lighter and more detailed because of the nature of the delicate strands of silk thread they are made with.

The lady is cutting the newest knotted strings to an exact length.

The lady is cutting the newest row of knotted strings to an exact length.

Part of the function of Carpetium Carpet Manufacturing is not only to produce beautiful carpets but also to teach artists the special techniques that result in masterpieces. A few students were working at their looms. Many of the carpets on display were worth thousands of dollars. Some were priceless. Among other things, quality is in part judged by the number of threads per square inch. Assuming that an experienced weaver can do 360 knots per hour, it takes 2 years to complete a 1,000-knot per square inch 3′ x 5′ size silk rug.

The Carpetium Carpet Manufacturing store had hundreds of carpets of all sizes and price ranges to choose from.

The Carpetium Carpet Manufacturing store had hundreds of carpets of all sizes and price ranges to choose from.

The difference between a machine-made rug and a hand woven rug is that its fringe is attached after the rug is manufactured rather than being an integral part of the rug. You also can pull individual threads from the pile because a machine-made rug doesn’t have knots.

The following photos may give you an idea of the difference between a $35 “Persian” throw rug at Kmart and a $3,000 carpet from Turkey or any of the Asian nations.

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