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The
Idea------The Problems
In the beginning, it was innocent enough.The idea to drive across
Russia had lurked in the back of our minds since my participation
in the 1990 Camel Trophy. The Turtle Expedition, Unltd. has always
been fascinated by extremes. Now, there was Russia! One sixth of
the Earth's surface!! Eight million square miles; 7,000 miles across
eleven time zones stretching halfway around the planet! Russia is
2 1/2 times larger than the U.S.! Her doors were now suddenly, and
perhaps only temporarily, thrown open to adventurers for the first
time in over seventy years. Could this unique opportunity be missed??
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year of research and preparation had served only to show us how
unprepared we were, uncovering many unsolved problems which lay
ahead.
For starters, there was no all-weather road across the Russian Far
East, (Eastern Siberia). A vast wilderness
of
forest and swamps
in the south stretches north across unbridged rivers, high mountains,
and frozen tundra to the distant shores of the Arctic Ocean. We
could
find few foreigners or Russians who had ever crossed Siberia with
a vehicle, and those who had invariably resorted to the Trans-Siberian
Railway in the South, with its Pacific terminus in Vladivostok,
or the BAM Railway from Tynda. Other routes
involved the
use of river barges
for hundreds of miles, down the Aldan from Khandyga and up the mighty
Lena to Ust Kut.
It seemed to us, that using trains and barges just because there's
no easy road,---other than simply to get across unbridged rivers
or oceans,--- is like using a helicopter to climb a mountain. That
brought us to the only possible answer: Winter Roads.
 Winter
Roads are not a new invention. Russian Cossacks and trappers, and
before them, the Paleo-Siberian and Altaic tribes, including the
warriors of Genghis Khan and the Tatars, roamed the forests and
valleys of Siberia for millennia, following these frozen tracks.
We
began to realize that if we were to actually drive across Russia,
timing would be critical. Winter comes early in the Far East.
A September snow is normal, and major rivers freeze in November,
when the inland mountains and valleys begin to suffer some of
the coldest temperatures in the World. If the average is minus
40 degrees Fahrenheit (-40°C), weeks can pass when the mercury
never climbs above -60°F! There are documented lows below
-100°F!! At sixty below zero, metal can crystallize and snap,
and plastics---like photographic film and the vinyl sides of our
Four Wheel pop-up camper---can become as brittle as a potato chip.
Tires and fan belts can freeze and crack like glass and a 5-15W
Arctic oil turns to heavy jello. Gear oil becomes solid.
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 Our
own safety was of paramount concern. The human body, with its built-in
internal heater, is far easier than a truck to keep alive in such
extremes, but frostbite can occur in minutes at temperatures below
-50°F. Our Northern Outfitters Expedition Series EXP II Clothing
Systems would protect us down to -100°F in a worst-case scenario.
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Fuel
could be a problem. Normal diesel turns to syrup at -60°F, clogging
filters with globs of wax and reducing fuel lines to mere capillaries.
That's if we could find fuel, which was reported to be in short
supply throughout Eastern Siberia. Our support trailer's auxiliary
tanks, filled with high-grade jet fuel before we left, would give
us a range of over 1,600 miles. Racor, Motorcraft, and Cim-Tek Hydrosorb
fuel filters and heaters would keep dirt and water out of the injection
pump and, in combination with Red Line Diesel additives, keep the
fuel in a liquid state, we hoped!
Food?!!
Following a reconnaissance trip to Central Siberia in January of
1995, we were told by Russians and foreigners alike that food could
be scarce, and locals in villages might have barely enough to last
the Winter. Basic supplies like butter, milk, rice, beans and pastas
must be brought with us. Fresh fruit and vegetables were unheard
of in winter months. Our support trailer would allow us to carry
at
least ninety days of basic dry goods, canned meats, and AlpineAire
freeze dried vegetables.
Water---when it could be found in liquid form---needed to be boiled
or filtered. Some people recommend both. During the coldest months,
we could not use the camper's water storage tank with its Everpure
purification system. One-liter Nalgene containers would be carried
inside the camper, and a portable PUR water purifier would to be
used. The PUR Explorer with its Tri-Iodine Resin Filter, will kill
viruses, our main concern.
Cooking
and heating in our Four Wheel pop-up camper would be interesting,
starting with the fact that propane freezes at -42°F. In any
case, the nearest propane fill depot we knew existed thousands of
miles west of our starting point. Multi-Fuel Coleman Peak I Apex
II stoves would serve as a back-up for cooking and melting snow.
Tests
in Prudhoe Bay in 1994 showed a bottle of propane would keep the
three-season camper above freezing for only four days at a balmy
eighteen degrees above zero Fahrenheit. A Hunter Falconaire DH-22
20,000 BTU diesel-fueled heater replaced the factory propane unit.
Additionally, a Hunter HW-6 12V variable 6,000 to 20,000 BTU hot
water heater, plumbed to the engine's cooling system, was installed.
Russian
medical facilities, a reported 40% of which do not have hot running
water, were not recommended. Inoculations for travel in Russia's
backcountry read like the Who's Who list of life-threatening diseases,
including cholera, typhoid, rabies, hepatitis A & B, Japanese
encephalitis, tetanus/diphtheria, polio, and Russian Spring tick
fever. We had to be self-contained, careful, and lucky. Especially
in remote areas, our ability to contact the outside world would
be virtually impossible. Hughes supplied us with a briefcase MagnaPhone
Satellite Communication System for use in an emergency situation.
Using our Lowrance GPS, we would know our exact location. We studied
wilderness first-aid books and practiced sewing sutures on an orange.
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these problems notwithstanding, there were the ongoing horror stories
of bandits, highway robbery, Mafia, and rising crime. Reports from
both the American Embassy and Russian & American contacts inside
the former Soviet Union indicated that these dangers were real and
should not be taken lightly. It was suggested that we travel armed
and most certainly not alone, least we end up in a ditch with a bullet
in the back of our head.
You should be getting the picture. This was not going to be a "drive
in the country". Simply discovering how to get our expedition
truck and its support trailer to Magadan was a challenge. (The first
"expert" advice we received from the office of Russian-American
Commerce in Alaska was to "hitch a ride" from Dutch Harbor
in the Aleutians on a passing Russian fishing boat.)
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